94-96 / 100 by Allen Meadow
Moderate wood sets off a notably ripe and ever-so-mildly exotic nose that includes notes of peach and ... Read more Moderate wood sets off a notably ripe and ever-so-mildly exotic nose that includes notes of peach and pear liqueur along with an abundance of floral and spice wisps. This is also imposingly scaled with its full-bodied and overtly powerful mouth coating flavors that deliver almost painful intensity and power on the dramatically long finish. Once again this is a big but impeccably well-balanced effort that should amply repay extended keeping. A 'wow' wine.
[ Source: https://www.burghound.com/tnsearch/index.php?id=262778 ]
93-95 / 100 by Robert Parker
The 2015 Montrachet Grand Cru amounts to a demi-muid and two barrels this year, which might not sound ... Read more The 2015 Montrachet Grand Cru amounts to a demi-muid and two barrels this year, which might not sound like much, but it's a damn lot more than the 170 kilograms eked from the 2016 vintage and due to be blended with five other equally bereft growers. This vintage has a very engaging nose: honeysuckle and jasmine, flint and a distant scent of pralines all veiled in a pleasant reduction (which seems to be Dominique Lafon's intention in recent vintages). Naturally, the palate is extremely well balanced and there is a fine bead of acidity. Its core of citrus fruit is complemented by brioche and praline, and dovetails into a light tropical vein towards the weighty (but not heavy) finish. Whilst it will doubtless be a long-term proposition, unlike the 2014 I can envisage this being broached with just 2-3 years in bottle. My visit to Domaine des Comtes-Lafon was the final during my first full week of tasting, on a damp squib of a Thursday afternoon. The construction in the reception office is now complete and comes replete with a glass floor allowing visitors to peer down at the barrel cellar. Very nice, though to those like me without a head for heights, it just induces mild vertigo. After a customary cheeky cigarette, which I now factor into my schedule, Dominique and I descended down to his barrel cellar during which we had an interesting discussion regarding the reduced 2013 Montrachet that I had tasted a couple of weeks before. He told me that this is his intention, a countermeasure against premature oxidation that afflicted some of his bottles during the early 2000s. In tandem with this move is the conversion to DIAM closures, of which he is a big fan and arguably the highest profile advocate of the closure alongside Domaine Leflaive. "People ask me how I can use DIAM," he told me, "but I reply, how can you use corks when they cause so much TCA?" Touché! This led to a conversation with respect to adjusting the use of sulphur during the vinification. On this subject, Dominique paused for thought before commenting that really the only way to find out is through praxis, using DIAM and then testing bottles. Indeed, he is proactively opening his entire range after one year and beyond and testing sulphur levels. He seemed tempted to reduce the SO2, however, is certainly not inclined to rush into things. With respect to the 2015s, I tasted his entire range from the Côte d'Or except for the Meursault Goutte d'Or and the Poruzots, both lagging in terms of the malolactic. Dominique remedies this by transferring the wines from barrel into stainless steel vat upstairs to get them going, occasionally using the lees from another cuvée to nudge the process along. Apart from those two, the malolactics finished in March and these samples that I tasted in barrel had been sulphured though not racked. He was pleased how the 2015s are turning out, though he confessed that throughout the dry growing season his vines had been close to hydric stress, particularly the young vines. He picked early from 27th August with his parcels in the lieux-dits “Luraules” and “Crotots” in Meursault and finished on 5th September in Monthélie. As usual I commenced with the reds and was suitably impressed by the lavishness of his Volnays, in particular a sensual Les Champans, which is fast overtaking his Santenots as my favorite red from the domaine. The whites do not possess the razor-sharp acidity or the nervosité of his 2014s, not to infer that they wines come up short with the exception of a rather staid Meursault Genevrières, habitually one of my favorite vineyards from Dominique. Actually it was the Meursault Bouchères that really impressed me with its nervous energy and precision, not the most well known within his portfolio but performing extremely well this year and beginning to build a solid track record. I noticed some reduction in his top wines, most noticeably in Les Perrières and his Montrachet, something to keep an eye on, in particular for those intent on opening them young. My advice: don't. I think the way Dominique is making his wines now makes them more worthy of bottle age and I write that in the knowledge that he has certainly not been spared premature oxidation in the past. Then again, I don't particularly enjoy a heavy reduction either. Maybe just give them a rough decant if you are inclined towards vinous infanticide. And with that, it was time to speed off to catch my flight home and for Dominique to sneak in another cheeky cigarette.
[ Source: 228, The Wine Advocate ]
18 / 20 by Jancis Robinson
Cask sample. Very winning and rich on the nose with wonderful richness on the palate. Bright and rich not at all heavy.
[ Source: https://www.jancisrobinson.com/tastings/search?keywords=lafon%202015&query_field=title_t-country_t-regions_txt&perpage=20 ]