Ermitage L´Ermite, Blanc, 2013
100 / 100 by Robert Parker
Completing a trifecta of perfect whites, the 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite Blanc is another sensational effort ... Read more Completing a trifecta of perfect whites, the 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite Blanc is another sensational effort that offers incredible minerality/liquid rock in its pineapple, tangerine, flower oil, mint and caramelized citrus-driven bouquet. Full-bodied and beautiful on the palate, with more tension and focus than the Cuvee de L’Orée or le Meal, it has perfectly balanced richness, structure and freshness, with no hard edges and a blockbuster finish. It won't be accessible for another 3-4 years and will most likely be immortal in the cellar. Michel Chapoutier has once again produced one of the reference-point lineups for the entire Rhône Valley. Certainly, his 2012s lived up to my billing last year, and they’re easily some of the finest efforts produced in the vintage, not only with his top cuvees in Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, but also in the up-and-coming appellation of St Joseph, as well as in Condrieu (where his Coteaux du Chery is one of the finest in the appellation), St Péray and Crozes Hermitage. You can see my thrilled reviews on his 2012 Southern Rhônes in Issue 215. His 2012 whites were all reviewed last year from bottle, but they were included again in the massive tasting at this estate this year, so I opted to include them again. They all showed as good, if not better, than last year. Tasted out of bottle this year, the Le Meal, Pavillon and l’Ermite came in at the top of their barrel reviews from last year, which puts them on par with what was accomplished in 2009 and 2010. That’s shocking to me, but the proof is in the glass, as they say. Incredibly, I find the quality in the 2013s almost as compelling, and Michel thinks there’s more than one perfect wine in that lineup. His Le Meal and Les Greffieux releases, in particular, seem to have hit another level recently. These will see an extended élevage in barrel, and I suspect a few will still be in barrel next year for my tastings as well. The 2013 whites are some of the finest I’ve ever tasted from him, and they have incredible concentration, depth and length, with beautiful acidity and freshness. Marsanne just doesn’t get any better than what’s put into his le Meal, l’Ermite and de L’Orée cuvees. A wine I think competes at that level (and I’ve had it side by side numerous times) is his Saint Joseph Les Granits Blanc. Unfortunately, it’s now being priced at roughly the same level and falls outside what I would normally classify as value. Nevertheless, it’s a world-class example of Northern Rhône white and will age for two decades or more. However, a wine that’s still a smoking value is his Chante Alouette, and readers wanting to get a small taste of what’s offered by his upper-tier whites need to get a bottle (or more) of the 2012. Other wines to keep on your radar are his single-vineyard releases from Domaine de Bila Haut in the Roussillon. These are incredible wines and I’ll report on the new releases from here early next year.
[ Source: 216, The Wine Advocate ]
98 / 100 by Wine Spectator
Beautiful, with acacia and jasmine notes giving this an almost piercing feel before the core of Jonagold ... Read more Beautiful, with acacia and jasmine notes giving this an almost piercing feel before the core of Jonagold apple, white peach and mirabelle plum quickly fills in behind them. The finish is a rapier, which is amazing considering the depth here, as mouthwatering salted butter and quinine details race through. One of the world's truly amazing wines. Best from 2018 through 2035.
[ Source: http://www.winespectator.com/wine/detail/note_id/411640 ]
17.5 / 20 by Jancis Robinson
0.5 ha, 100% Marsanne. This wine is made from a selection of Chapoutier’s oldest Marsanne (some more ... Read more 0.5 ha, 100% Marsanne. This wine is made from a selection of Chapoutier’s oldest Marsanne (some more than 100 years old) situated at the top of the Hermitage hill, behind the chapel, at a place named the Ermite and planted on poor granitic and shallow soils (An alkaline granite, the only one in which you can grow truffles). This is the most structured Chapoutier white Hermitage. Yields are very low – 12hl/ha. Very big and rich and seems rather marked by oak – although all these wines had the same oak regime. Savoury finish. This seems to have absorbed the oak less efficiently than the two other 2013 Ermitage Blancs. This tastes rather more like a white burgundy. Muscular and youthful. Lots to chew on!
[ Source: http://www.jancisrobinson.com/tastings/search?keywords=Chapoutier%202013&query_field=title_t-country_t-regions_txt&perpage=20 ]